Nature
PUBLISHED
Standing at the top of Helmcken Falls in summer, you find yourself staring down at a churning pool of water as the Murtle River plummets 141 meters (463 feet). Visit that same spot in winter and you’ll find yourself staring into “the cauldron of death”. At least, that’s what climber Will Gadd and his crew nicknamed the cavernous bowl of ice that was waiting below when he completed his first ascent of Overhead Hazard.
The rest of this article is behind a paywall. Please sign in or subscribe to access the full content.The cauldron Gadd spoke of is an impressive ice cone that forms at the base of the fall and grows into a giant bowl-like structure that can reach 50 meters (164 feet), or up to halfway up the falls. The wall behind develops spikes as enormous icicles form from the freezing temperatures and falling water. In fact, it gets so cold that the falls can create its own snow.
It’s a treacherous route, not only because that cauldron of death is lurking below waiting to swallow your tools, or worse, you, but also because giant spears dangle overhead that could very easily crush you.
“This route is called Overhead Hazard, named for all the giant icicles hanging over your head as you walk around the base,” Gadd told National Geographic. “It’s a constant ‘head bob’ to look up and make sure there isn’t an icicle above you. They break off regularly, and weigh as much as a bus or something – they’d smush you pretty effectively.”
It perhaps goes without saying, then, that this is not the recommended way to enjoy the winter majesty of Helmcken Falls. Fortunately, for those who don’t fancy staring down a bus-for-an-icicle, there’s a trail for that. If you want to see the ice cone, your best months are late January to late February.
Wells Gray is known as “Canada’s Waterfall Park” thanks to the action of ancient volcanoes and glaciers that carved out the powerful bodies of water that now tumble across the landscape. The sheer variety means there’s a waterfall for every hiking preference, from those that can be found minutes from the main road up to Helmcken Falls, the fourth-highest waterfall in Canada. There is a wheelchair-accessible viewing platform that can be reached from the parking lot, or you can follow Helmcken from source to falls along the South Rim Trail.
Beyond housing a charismatic cast of waterfalls, Wells Gray is also a biodiversity hotspot with a host of creatures big and small to spot throughout the year. Read up on your bear safety as the park site says there’s a good chance of encountering black and grizzly bears between spring and autumn. The park’s moose, on the other hand, are active year-round.
This article first appeared in Issue 31 of our digital magazine CURIOUS. Older issues of CURIOUS are free for all users. To access new issues, become an All Access Member.
